What makes a garment something you can just throw on in the morning?
Not the strict-meets-sensual that originally put Quira on the map — and got the brand a spot among the 2023 LVMH Prize for Young Designers finalists — confessed designer Veronica Leoni.
“I couldn’t dress that way, it felt too dressed up,” she said at her second Paris presentation. Her answer was to wipe her slate clean for spring in search of a way to “bring neat, sophisticated elegance to 9 a.m.”
Deliver she did and hearing her recount the process of each piece was a joy.
Exhibit A: a yarn-dyed tailoring jacket in a very traditional British-style check that was so weightless it could be worn as a shirt. It was tucked into a skirt that started out as a balloon shape before turning into a sculptural cascade of folds — with pockets.
Elsewhere, she extolled on grandpa-style vests knitted from recycled silks that were perfect for layering, talked about the silk-linen twill that made a summer suit ideal for the heat, and showed the ribbon trim that upheld the structure of a trench coat.
Gone too was her dark color palette, replaced by a delicate array of strong pastels, created using mineral-based dyes on cotton poplin and silk crepe-de-chine; warm earthy tones, and even a scattering of crystals for one blowsy dress.
Pops of even brighter hues identified the pieces she felt most important to the Quira spring — solid saffron yellow for a flapper-style polo dress inspired by a Peggy Guggenheim portrait, or fuchsia organza for a gown with the season’s cutout highlighting the three-dimensionality of the female bust without revealing any skin.
Along with her technical precision, the breezy feeling exuded by the lineup showed Leoni has range and should put wind in her brand’s sails — and sales.