SAVE THE DATE: Let the 2025 cruise season begin.
First out of the gate, Louis Vuitton revealed on Thursday that its destination show is scheduled for May 23, though it has yet to disclose other details such as the geographic location and venue.
Nicolas Ghesquière, artistic director of women’s collections at Vuitton since 2013, typically selects an architectural marvel as a transporting backdrop for Vuitton’s resort shows.
Last year, he chose Isola Bella, the small Italian island on Lake Maggiore that has been owned by the Borromeo family for some four centuries. Despite unpredictable weather, he delivered a striking collection inspired by underwater creatures of the lake.
Over the years, Vuitton cruise shows have taken place at locations including the Bob Hope estate by John Lautner in Palm Springs, Calif.; Brazil’s otherworldly Museum of Contemporary Art Niterói by Oscar Niemeyer; Kyoto’s Miho Museum by Ieoh Ming Pei; the Fondation Maeght in Saint-Paul de Vence by Josep Lluís Sert, and the TWA Flight Center at JFK Airport in New York by Eero Saarinen.
Cruise represents a key delivery for luxury brands as the collections have a long selling window straddling several seasons, and often dedicated campaigns and extra distribution via pop-up stores.
While destination shows were scuttled during the coronavirus pandemic, they have come roaring back, with Chanel taking its Métiers d’Art collection to Dakar, Senegal, Dior showing its men’s pre-fall collection in front of the pyramids of Giza in Egypt, and scores of brands heading to Italy over the summer.
Vuitton usually unveils its spring and fall womenswear and menswear collections in Paris, but it has also staged “spin-off shows” as far afield as Bangkok, Miami and Shanghai. It plans to stage its first runway show for the men’s pre-fall collection in Hong Kong on Nov. 30. — JOELLE DIDERICH
SPOOKY SEASON: Stealth wealth may have usurped cottage core, but that hasn’t put the kibosh on Batsheva Hay and Laura Ashley’s collaborations.
The New York-based designer and the British fashion and homewares brand, both known for their Victorian-inspired collections teeming with romantic prints, have linked up again to release their fifth capsule since 2021 — and third this year alone.
The 15 styles being offered will be available on both brands’ e-commerce sites, as well as at Laura Ashley stores across the U.K. beginning Sunday. Sizes range from 0 to 20, and prices range from $150 to $350.
“I love a fall drop because I can really dig into the richer colors,” said Hay, whose decision to launch her own line came after attempting to remake a vintage Laura Ashley dress.
The Victorian frills and romantic prints with which Laura Ashley is now synonymous have majorly influenced Hay, who explained her continued partnership with the brand is “politely dissenting to the idea of minimalism.”
Pulling from the archive, Hay selected florals “with a hand-painted feel” like Tea Rose, Sutterton and Sherwood Forest. She inserted blocks of black velvet for contrast, like on the bodice of the Ruthin dress, a carryover design with puff sleeves, which remains her personal favorite.
For this release, Hay reintroduced it in mini-length, alongside new pieces like the prairie-collar Swansea blouse and the tiered Carwyn dress.
Following up on previous campaigns, which have featured the designer in the midst of such oddball acts as vacuuming sand from a beach, Hay set this one on an apple orchard and in her mother-in-law’s swimming pool.
The images shot by her husband Alexei have a “spooky and mysterious” vibe, she said, which is fitting given Halloween is just around the corner. “I love Halloween and can definitely can imagine people wearing these dresses as costumes,” she added. — ARI STARK
FANTASY SPORTS: The NBA continues to expand its reach — this time into a fantasy world.
The basketball league is partnering with Advisory Board Crystals, a buzzy streetwear brand, on a capsule conceived around a fictional team known as The Fantasies that would bring the number of NBA teams to 31.
The pretend 31st NBA team is envisioned as “a philosophical experiment aimed at uncovering the profound potential found in the commonality of human experiences.”
That lofty, head-scratching idea translates into more than 60 ready-to-wear pieces, a custom 31st NBA jersey and eight accessories that will retail for $15 to $650.
To promote the launch of this new “team,” the two companies have tapped “Stranger Things” actor Brett Gelman to serve as the coach of The Fantasies and filmed a nearly 5-minute video of him explaining the purpose of the new team, which was still puzzling despite his best efforts.
As way of explanation, an Advisory Board Crystals spokesperson said: “When the notion of a partnership between the NBA and Abc. emerged, Heather and Remington [Heather Haber and Remington Guest, cofounders of the Los Angeles-based brand] were keen on pursuing a distinctive and groundbreaking approach, aligning with Abc.’s tradition of innovation. Instead of merely applying the Abc. touch to an existing NBA concept, they opted to envision an entirely new team, the “31st team” in the NBA, dubbed “The Fantasies.” This unique team was founded on the principles of human connection and values, diverging from the typical geographical and sportsmanship attributes associated with NBA teams. Surprisingly, the NBA granted them the freedom to pursue this concept, marking a departure from their previous practices.”
The collection will be released on Thursday on the Advisory Board Crystals website, Hypebeast and select retailers. — JEAN E. PALMIERI
CAMO COLLECTION: Mossy Oak, an apparel brand known for its camouflage designs targeted to hunters and outdoors enthusiasts, is collaborating with Tribe Kelley on a new collection.
Under the terms of the deal, Tribe Kelley, the brand founded by former Florida Georgia Line singer Brian Kelley and his wife Brittney, will use Mossy’s Oak’s signature Greenleaf pattern on a variety of its most popular pieces.
The Greenleaf will be featured on Tribe Kelley’s Butter Sweats, Corset Zip Hoodie, Butter Wide Leg Pants, Ribbed Flare Leggings, Ribbed Traveler Bra and an exclusive selection of denim Jackets. Brian Kelley will integrate lyrics, including the first verse and the chorus, from his unreleased song “Shootin’ the Breeze” into the design of the limited-edition jacket.
Brittney Kelley said the collaboration “merges our homegrown ethos with the legendary Mossy Oak Greenleaf print. With a nod to our shared heritage and the landscapes that inspire us, this partnership is a testament to our dedication to quality, tradition and the vibrant spirit of our roots.”
The collection ranges in price from $80 to $325 and is available on Tribe Kelley’s e-commerce site as well as its physical store in Grayton Beach, Fla. — J.E.P.
U.S. DEBUT: Paradise Row, a London-based luxury leather goods brand, is set to enter the U.S. market for the first time, with Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop offering the label’s leather tennis racket cover and ball tube holder.
Made with vegetable tanned leather and with stitch detailing, the company’s artisanal and minimalist product range includes items for the desk, such as a pencil case and laptop sleeve, and tabletop accessories, such as cutlery holders, placemats and coasters.
Prices range from 65 pounds to 395 pounds.
Nika Diamond-Krendel, Paradise Row’s founder, said she had been working on the side “with businesses that really loved the leather that we use for our bags. They asked if we could do some bespoke commissions, ranging from leather tableware, leather menus, cutlery pouches and hotel keys. I thought that actually we’re a leather brand, not just a handbag brand,” she said.
Diamond-Krendel added that at the turn of 2020, “at the same time as the pandemic, I expanded the range into all sorts of leather goods.”
The decision was timely, with lockdown pushing the home category into the spotlight. In addition to using sustainable packaging, the brand offers customers the option to monogram a selection of products.
The brand is also sold at Monocle and Soho Home, and has also partnered with a series of interior designers, including Bryan O’Sullivan Studio, to create bespoke products for clients. — VIOLET GOLDSTONE