For his first outing in Paris, Australian designer Christopher Esber pulled out all the stops to show why his 11-year-old label is a hit with the likes of Zendaya and Dua Lipa.
His popular lightly constructed dresses that looked merely wrapped around the body or revealed tasteful flashes of skin epitomized his modus operandi of “letting the fabric do what it needs to do and really just let the wearer have that moment.”
But more sophisticated choices showed his design chops. Among these, a trompe-l’oeil top modeled after a spencer blazer; an apron dress with silver arcs in lieu of straps, or tailored trousers in swimsuit material with a flattering cummerbund waistband.
Materials leaned into an impression of refinement. Backstage, terrycloth sweater dresses turned out to be silk and tufted edges were applications onto a crushed gauze. More surprising, what looked like patent leaf-shaped leather was made from the foliage of Amazonian trees and bonded with cotton.
Esber said the trick to the season’s idea of a “primitive” baseline wardrobe to build upon was “merging easy with looking sharp.” His Paris debut certainly did.