Revenue Climbs, Losses Widen at Dunhill in Fiscal 2023 – WWD

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LONDON Dunhill saw revenue climb and losses widen in fiscal 2023, according to the latest accounts filed on Companies House in the U.K.

Revenue rose 9.5 percent to 36,358 million pounds in the year ended March 31. Losses for the year widened to 37,928 million pounds from 22,056 million pounds in the period.

The company posted an operating loss of 49,125 million pounds, up from 35,914 million pounds.

Dunhill is owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont, and sits alongside brands such as Chloé, Alaïa and Delvaux in the luxury giant’s fashion and accessories division. 

The label has seen a wave of change this year, welcoming a new creative director in Simon Holloway, and bidding farewell to its chief executive officer Laurent Malecaze, who will be moving to a similar role at Chloé in the new year. 

As reported, Malecaze will succeed Riccardo Bellini at the French fashion house, and it’s understood a search for Malecaze’s successor at Dunhill has been initiated.

Andrew Holmes, chief operating and financial officer at Dunhill, is ad interim CEO of the British label.

During his tenure Malecaze recruited Simon Holloway, who will show his first collection as creative director for the brand in February.

Holloway had previously served as creative director of James Purdey & Sons which, like Dunhill, is part of the Compagnie Financière Richemont stable. 

At the time, the company said Holloway’s appointment “reinforces the focus on Dunhill’s guiding principles of British craft, innovation, functionality and masculine elegance.” 

Holloway said in an interview earlier this year that Dunhill will accent tailored clothing, luxury fabrics and classic menswear silhouettes, giving a hint what’s to come.

“I want the guys to look more handsome — like movie stars,” Holloway told WWD in June when he presented the spring 2024 collection, a transitional one designed by the in-house team and styled by Holloway. His intention is to restore Dunhill to its classic roots, and make finely tailored clothing with British wool and a light hand.

Going forward, the creative director plans to lean into the bespoke heritage of Dunhill, and said he’s eager to see the brand’s suits on the red carpet and the awards stage once again. 

For spring, the focus was on tailoring with lots of lightweight wool for jackets with subtle stripes or windowpane checks. One navy blazer was done in a jersey piquet wool weave, while another was done in unlined suede. Some of those wool jackets came paired with white cotton or gray flannel Gurkha trousers for an old world, English aristo feel.

Knitwear played a fine supporting role, with featherweight cashmere scarves wrapped around the neck of jackets; a shawl-collar wool sweater paired with white, knee-length shorts; a chain stitch argyle sweater, and a lineup of luscious cable-knits.  

Holloway also put a strong emphasis on soft accessories, too, tucking a gossamer linen dotted handkerchief into the pocket of a jacket or adding a geometric print silk scarf to the neck of a wool sweater.

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