Jonathan Anderson, creative director of Loewe, has a lot on his plate, which is maybe why this latest collection for the house felt like only a first course.
Anderson has staged some of the most acclaimed shows in Paris these past couple of years, though not this Friday.
Matter of fact his Spring/Summer 2024 women’s collection tasted like a reheated version of his menswear collection for Loewe in June. From super high-waisted pants to oversized knits this show felt all rather familiar.
One had to admire his invite – a gold metal plate square featuring an image of a busty mermaid courtesy of sculptor Lynda Benglis. She also provided a half dozen bronze and black abstract sculptures that recalled tires exploding on impact, but were named ‘Elephant Necklace’. Benglis also created the water sculpture for the men’s show too.
In this display staged in the Bois de Vincennes, Anderson was not helped by the truly insane decision to have the entire cast march nearly ten yards away from the majority of the audience. Anytime one witnessed a strong look one felt it was a pity the model was on the other side of the street.
He opened with a series of Pirosmani-worthy floor sweeping cable knits, before segueing into a long series of wide leg pants that ended half way up the tummy. These he paired with micro blouses, crisp grandfather shirts, bright hued knits and a remarkable metallic confetti blouse.
Often accessorized with jewelry by Benglis, who clearly obsesses Anderson. Indeed, he insisted the collection mimicked the artist’s own life: first “a sexual being,” then a moment of “establishment recognition” and finally “disappearing from the scene.”
A duo of curtain like semi-sheer mid-length dresses did add a little oomph, as did some fine mesh tubular cocktails. His big idea was in cutting and dropping waistlines, so they fell away from the torso, or pulling up leather coats on one side to attach them to matching handbags. And between the Squeeze and Pebble Bucket bags, he will keep the cash registers humming for Bernard Arnault, Loewe’s patron.
“I wanted something fresh, and I think with men’s I found a new type of rhythm, about tightening and enjoying this silhouette,” explained Anderson post-show.
“I like the way Lynda plays on bad taste, using glitter and wax, and that she went from antagonistic to cerebral,” he added.
But, between creating eight collections a year for Loewe and his own brand, and curating the recent On Foot exhibition in London, this lad has been busy.
So, from taxed talent one cannot every season expect a stellar show. This display was definitely not one.
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